In addition, the dangui can be divided into two types depending on its layer: the gyeop-dangui ( 겹당의), which is a double layered dangui, and the hot-dangui ( 홑당의), which is a single-layered dangui. The materials, along with the decorations and colours used in the dangui, differed based on the social status of its wearer, on the occasions when it had to be worn, and on the seasons. The white border band is an indication that it is a type of ceremonial garment. At the end of the sleeves of dangui, there is geodeulji, a kind of white border band attached. Two goreum are attached at the left side of git ( 깃), which is a fabric band of that trims the collar while one short goreum is at the git's right side. When making a dangui with a yellowish green fabric, the color for the inner fabric and for goreum ( 고름), which is the ribbons tied at the chest, is red and purple respectively. The side seams are open to the armpit and are curved in shape. The characteristic design purpose of the dangui is to emphasize the beauty of the hanbok's curvy lines. The form of dangui is similar to that of jeogori however, the length of both the front and back side of the dangui reach to the knees-level and is triple to that of jeogori. Construction and design Ī dangui worn by a court woman, Joseon dynasty, 19th century, from the Brooklyn Museum It is also a woman's sangbok ( Hanja: 常服 Chinese: 常服 pinyin: chángfú), a daily garments when working. In the chapter, Gwallyejo《 冠 禮 條》on the coming of age ceremonies, the samja ( 삼자 衫子) was commonly called dangui and its length reaches to the knees and its sleeves are narrow.
#Dan gui tar manual
The scholar, Yi Jae (李縡 1680 ~ 1746) mentioned dangui in his book, Sarye pyeollam 《 사례편람 四禮便覽 Sarye pyŏllam lit. "Easy Manual of the Four Rites" or "Convenient Reference to the Four Rites"》 which defines four important rites based on Confucianism. Whether the theory is probable or not, it is certain that dangui was worn during the Joseon period, based on historical documents and remains. The Hanja characters《 上 國 同》, used in this poem, literally means " Upper state", the sovereign power which refers to the Great Ming. If the Emperor of Ming asks for things about here, clothing, headwear, culture, and objects are the same as upper state/power.
During Seongjong ruling era, Joseon official and poet, Seo Geojeong( 서거정 徐居正 1420 – 1488) had written a similar poem to Choe Bu: The first ruler of Joseon, King Taejo, had requested the Hongwu Emperor of Ming for sets of clothing, headwear, and other items from the sovereign state to officials in Joseon. According to Choe Bu (1454 – 1504), an early Joseon official: Įven though Joseon locates far way from Ming empire's mainland, our headwear, clothing, and cultural aspects are all the same as Ming.ĭuring Seongjong period, Joseon was the vassal state of Ming. Thus, the dangui may have been derived from the clothing of the Tang dynasty along with other ceremonial robes, such as the hwarot and the wonsam, in which there could also be influence of the hanfu worn during Ming dynasty of China. The Hanja character《 唐》may have referred to Tang dynasty of China dating between 618 and 907 AD. It is theorized that dangui dates back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period, a period between 57 BC and 668 AD, when a clothing system of China was introduced to Korea.
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